Posted by Mike Field on September 10, 2011 at 06:21:42 user mikefield.
In Reply to: Splatchers posted by Alex Forbes on August 26, 2011 at 20:34:05:
I tried making some elliptical splatchers to my own design a few years ago to use in the mud of Western Port, where I kept my boats. The splatchers were not as successful as I would have hoped, and although I thought of some modifications that might have improved them I never put them into effect.
Later I came on a drawing and description of some square splatchers, or pattens, and I present it here for anyone who might wish to try making some.
If you do, please let us know how you got on!
"SPLATCHERS -- SQUARE
(See graphic)
Anyone who has lugged gun, cartridges, a sackful of decoys and the makings of a hide more than a few hundred yards across mud little more than even ankle depth will appreciate the true meaning of having to work for their birds. The obvious solution to this problem, then, is to use mud pattens. Stout wooden boards tied to the fowler's feet, their purpose is to spread his weight over a greater surface area, thereby preventing him from sinking. Simple enough in theory, but what of the practicalities? Most of the great wildfowling authors have touched upon their design and use. Colonel Hawker's mud boards work well enough but the large oval boards fastened to the foot with leather straps as recommended by Sir Ralph Payne-Gallwey are positively dangerous. Indeed, the more you research the subject, the more it becomes apparent that, while widely understood in principle, few have grasped the simple essentials of safe mud walking.
The harbours of Portsmouth. Langstone and Chichester contain a particularly viscous brand of sediment. Many years ago those with business about the harbours - cocklers, bait-diggers, flight shooters and puntgunners - perfected the design of their mud pattens. The boards themselves are nothing revolutionary: 12in square with rounded corners. Traditionally, they are made of elm, although marine or even exterior-grade, plywood will give years of service. Hardwood strips fastened to the bottom, traditionally with copper rivets, although brass screws and waterproof wood glue will suffice, provide the necessary grip to prevent sliding.
The secret lies not so much in the board's dimensions, but in the positioning of the foot and the precise method of fastening. Two rope loops secured under the board with a figure-of-eight or stopper-knot provide the anchor points for the rope ties. Place the foot between, and parallel to, the fixed loops, with the toe level with the leading edge. Once fastened, it is possible to walk normally. There is no need to adopt the tiring and unnatural gait necessary as when the foot is placed in the middle of the board.
Boards that overlap the toe require an awkward flatfooted gait. With each step it is necessary to overcome the suction of the mud. A normal walking gait has the effect of pushing the overlap further into the mud. All this places an additional strain upon both the loops and the fastening ties. With the foot correctly positioned, it is possible to walk normally. In this way there is less suction to overcome, therefore less strain on the fastenings.
It is possible to kneel comfortably, an important consideration for the shoulder gunner; it is even possible to climb steep creek banks without fear of wrenching the patten from your foot.
Cheap polypropylene rope is quite adequate for both board loops and ties. Avoid expensive nylon or terylene rope - it has different design characteristics and is inclined to slip when knotted. It is worth hunting out some old-fashioned hemp rope, particularly for the ties. It binds well to itself and gives a secure knot. Should you decide to use natural cordage it must be inspected regularly and replaced immediately any wear becomes apparent. Like the puntgunner's breaching rope, your life may depend upon it not parting at an inopportune moment!
When securing the loops to your boards, it is imperative that you use a figure-of-eight knot. Instruction on how to tie it is available in any good book about basic seamanship. Don't be tempted to use a simple overhand knot. It will slip with disastrous consequences.
Having secured the pattens firmly to your feet, the following provide a few tips on their use:
Firstly, remember that you have them on! A slight adjustment of your gait may be required to avoid stepping one on the other. A few minutes practice on the lawn may prevent a potentially disastrous tumble on the mud.
When walking, you may experience a slight build-up of mud on the leading edge of the patten. A quick flick of the foot will remove it.
Always carry a couple of spare ties. to be used in the event of a sudden breakage, and your having to cut a rope.
Lastly, remember that patterns should be looked upon as an aid to easing your passage across the mud. They are not magic! Do not use them to attempt to cross mud so slack that the patten itself sinks into it."
It seems that the Mastodon's awkward running motion might not have been necessary after all....